Sep 28, 2010

Bouillon de Champignons Comme un Cappuccino (Mushroom Cappuccino)

Michelin three-star chef Alain Chapel wowed author Gael Greene with this innovative "cappuccino", a rich, earthy soup made with mushrooms. To foam the broth, use the steamer attachment on a cappuccino machine, or froth it in a blender.

Credit: Todd Coleman

6 tbsp. butter

1 lb. button mushrooms, halved

8 oz. mixed mushrooms, such as
oyster,  shiitake, and blue foot,
thinly sliced,  trimmings reserved

1 oz. dried shiitake mushrooms

1 1⁄2 cups heavy cream  

Kosher salt, to taste

Cayenne pepper, to taste 

12 crayfish tails, cooked and shelled,  
or 4 oz. cooked lobster meat,  cut
into bite-size pieces

4 sprigs fresh chervil or tarragon
leaves

1. Heat 3 tbsp. butter in a 3-qt. high-sided skillet over medium heat. Add button mushrooms and mushroom trimmings and cook, stirring often, until they release their liquid, about 10 minutes. Add 3⁄4 oz. dried shiitakes and 4 cups of water; boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until liquid has reduced to 3 cups, about 10 minutes. Set a fine-mesh strainer over a 2-qt. saucepan. Strain broth, pressing mushrooms with the back of a spoon to extract liquid; discard solids. Add cream to mushroom broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until flavors meld, about 10 minutes. Season broth with salt and a pinch of cayenne and set aside.

2. In a spice grinder, grind remaining dried shiitake mushrooms to a fine powder. Transfer mushroom powder to a small skillet over medium-high heat and toast, swirling pan constantly, until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Transfer mushroom powder to a small bowl; set aside.

3. Heat remaining butter in the skillet over medium heat. Add mixed mushrooms, season with salt, and cook, stirring gently, until tender, 4–5 minutes. Add crayfish, season with salt, and cook until hot. Remove pan from heat and set aside.

4. To serve, foam reserved broth on high speed in a blender or with the steamer attachment on an espresso machine. Mound crayfish mixture in 4 teacups or small bowls, and ladle in broth. Spoon foam on top, dust with mushroom powder, and garnish with chervil.

SERVES 4