Choc'a (Stewed Pork in Sesame and Pumpkin Seed Sauce)

This pork stew with a spicy, nutty sauce can be tracked down only in the agricultural valley town of Almolonga in Guatemala.

Yield: serves 6

Time: 2 hours, 50 minutes

Ingredients

4 lb. trimmed boneless pork shoulder, cut into 3-inch chunks
10 medium tomatoes (2 1/2 lb.)
1 medium white onion, quartered
1 tbsp. plus 1/4 tsp. kosher salt, or more to taste
³⁄₄ cup plus 2 Tbsp. sesame seeds (4 oz.)
³⁄₄ cup pumpkin seeds (4 oz.)
7 black peppercorns
5 cloves garlic
2 dried guajillo chiles, or another dried red mild to medium-heat chile, stemmed and seeded
Cooked rice or corn tamales, for serving

Instructions

In a large pot, add the pork, tomatoes, and onion and just enough water to cover (about 10 cups); stir in 1 tablespoon salt. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat and cook until the tomatoes are soft and the skins are peeling off, 20 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the tomatoes to a large bowl; discard the skins. Continue cooking the meat uncovered at a low simmer until tender, about 1 hour and 40 minutes more.
Meanwhile, in a large skillet or griddle, add the sesame and pumpkin seeds, peppercorns, garlic, and chiles; cook, stirring occasionally, over medium-high heat until toasted, 10–12 minutes. Remove to a medium bowl.
Using a metate (stone grinder), stone mortar and pestle, or food processor, grind the seed mixture into a thick, powdery paste with a few small chunks remaining. Add the cooked tomatoes, working in batches as needed, and ¹⁄₄ teaspoon salt; process well until the mixture has the texture of a thick, creamy sauce. (Sauce can be made up to 2 days ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)
When ready to serve, add the sauce and meat to a large pot over medium heat. Cook until the meat is heated through, adding a few tablespoons of water as needed to thin the sauce. Taste and adjust the seasoning as desired. Serve with rice or corn tamales, with the extra sauce ladled on top.