Deviled Eggs

When I see deviled eggs on a menu, I'm instantly excited. How has the chef tweaked the basic recipe? What's the "devil" (spicy) element? The eggs can be cut lengthwise or across. The filling can have endless added flavors, such as spices, chiles, vegetables, smoked seafood, and cured meats. The garnish can be anything from the classic paprika to bacon, chives, olives, shrimp, or caviar. Want to go supercute? Devil some quail eggs. The deviled eggs I serve at Chateau Marmont are a simple, clean variation on the classic, heated up with ground red chile flakes and freshened up with lemon juice and a splash of really good olive oil for a smooth texture. Smoked paprika and chopped chives garnish our devils, served with a small arugula-and-toasted-almond salad on the side. It's a fairly labor-intensive little treat, but well worth the effort. —Carolynn Spence, Chateau Marmont, Los Angeles