Crème de Soja

Frédéric Morin and David McMillan, of Montreal restaurants Joe Beef and Liverpool House, are classicists at heart. But sometimes even classicists take shortcuts. This sauce, which McMillan learned from legendary Montreal chef Nicolas Jongleux, involves soy sauce, but tastes completely French. It's a deceptively easy accompaniment to royale of rabbit liver, boudin, and meaty fishes.

MAKES 1½ CUPS

½ cup heavy cream
mustard (optional)
⅓ cup soy sauce

Whip heavy cream into soft peaks. Bring 1/3 cup soy sauce to a simmer in a 2-qt. saucepan. Whisk in whipped cream until sauce is smooth. Add a drip of mustard, if you like.