I've nothing against red raspberries, widely grown commercially, or against the now-trendy yellow variety. But I much prefer the richer, more delicate, less commercial eastern black raspberry, found in warmer climes from the Carolinas to New England. Blackberries, which form a different subgenus, have more seeds and retain a white core when picked. As a kid, I paid as much attention to the differences between berries as I did to getting at the best ones. After taking all the ripe ones in sight, I would crouch down, lift the silver-undersided leaves, and reach into the tangle to find, in the bramble's darkest recesses, the blackest, sweetest, and most voluptuous berries in the patch. Heading home, I often imagined the wonders that awaited me that evening—black raspberry pie oozing with juice, black raspberry coffee cake, even chocolate ice cream studded with the tender gems.