I could tell just by glancing at the candy canes from Zoe's Chocolate Company that they were a breed apart from the shrink-wrapped sticks sold by the millions during the holiday season. I'd heard that this small confectioner in Waynesboro, Pennsylvania, was one of the last in the country to make candy canes entirely by hand, and I'd decided to make the trip from my home in Washington, D.C., to try them for myself. There they were, a rainbow of pretty canes, all secured with a shiny ribbon. No two looked alike; each lustrous candy had contours and patterns that couldn't possibly have come from a machine. I bought a few of each kind: peppermint (in red, green, and white stripes), anise (blue, red, and white), and cinnamon (red and white).