Though this last item is not yet a ubiquitous delicacy on Jewish tables in San Francisco, it's well on its way to becoming one—at least at our house. For starters, if you use nondairy chocolate chips, it is pareve (a "neutral" food according to Jewish dietary law, meaning it may be eaten with either milk or meat products). Even better, because it has no flour—which dietary law forbids during Passover—it is peysadik, or "kosher for Passover". It turns out, as my wife has told me, that meringues have long been considered a perfect Passover treat by both Ashkenazic and Sephardic Jews. What Bam Bam used to call her "forgotten" cookie—because they should be left in the oven overnight to firm up—is the sweet of choice at our seder table as well as at those we visit. The only trouble with these cookies is the forgetting part: Once their aroma fills the kitchen, it's tough to let them slip your mind.