I don't entirely approve of commercial graham crackers, either, loaded as many of them are with high-fructose corn syrup and partially hydrogenated oil. But I am a fiery advocate of Pollystyle's version: crisp cookies with a rich, caramelized flavor and a substantial crunch, which outdo mass-produced grahams' powdery sweetness. Washington, D.C., baker Polly Brown bakes them with honey and whole wheat flour. (She hasn't yet found a source that will provide true graham flour in bulk.) Brown was first drawn to graham crackers as part of her quest to restore traditional baked goods—real English muffins, proper scones—to their rightful glory. About seven years ago, she began combing through vintage cookbooks for graham cracker recipes. She wasn't looking to go all the way back to Graham's recipe; the original was a thick and rather stodgy thing. Instead, she tried to better the ones she loved as a girl, enriching them with butter and a touch of dark brown sugar. The result is a slightly voluptuous, wholly satisfying biscuit.