There's something about this poached-lobster dish with fennel, orange, and persimmons that evokes holiday cooking to me. Though it's a wintry dish, it's still bright and light and you feel good after eating it, thanks to the citrus and the licoricelike flavors of the fennel. We use many expressions of fennel: blended with potato, it's an earthy, rich puree; the raw fronds add a fresh, green note; and the braised version gives it a luscious, home-cooked feel, something people can connect to—you need that in any dish. We also prepare some of the fennel by vacuum-sealing it with olive oil and salt in a Cryovac bag and compressing the contents to infuse it with flavor. But you can certainly skip it here and include some raw slivers instead. After cooking the lobster, we poach it in a sauce of white wine, orange juice, cream, and butter. Just like salt and sour and sweet, you always need a bit of heat in a dish, so we add the chile powder_ piment d'Espelette_ to the sauce. We enhance the lobster flavor with a bit of lobster-roe oil, which we make by mixing the roe with canola oil, as well as a powder that we create by dehydrating the roe, and then grinding it in a spice mill. But you could simply warm the roe and brush it over the lobster before serving.