Still, the quince can stir in its advocates something approximating passion. After I'd called Vasiliki Diamandas, owner of The Greek Store in Kenilworth, New Jersey, to talk quinces, she paid me a visit in my Manhattan office, bearing quince preserves (apologizing profusely for the fact that they weren't homemade) and a half-dozen cookbooks that make ample use of what she considers her favorite fruit. Renowned New York City chef David Bouley told me that at his now-closed restaurant, Bouley, he averaged 200 pounds of quince a week, most combined with duck, skate, lobster, or—in one of his signature dishes—foie gras. Then there's Johnny Morris, owner of Mineral King Packing, a specialty fruit packer in Visalia, California. In the late '80s, he convinced several local farmers not to tear out their quince trees. Now he oversees about 48 acres of quince production, and, with his ten-person crew, defuzzes, wraps, packs, and ships the fruit to quince-friendly stores across the country.