Origanum vulgare hirtum, the subspecies that's native to Greece and Turkey, is the one most prized by Greek cooks because of its high concentration of aromatic compounds, which make the herb extraordinarily spicy and pungent. I've seen cooks use it to season every kind of dish, from hearty, feta-studded salads to vegetable stews. They sprinkle oregano over grilled fish and egg dishes, and they blend
it with oil and lemon juice to make marinades for meat, especially for souvlaki. The herb's palate-awakening bite seasons all sorts of meze, including keftedes (meatballs) and shrimp saganaki baked with tomatoes and feta, and it's even brewed into tea.