Salumeria Biellese now sells nearly 80 types of sausages and meats, but its dry-cured varieties are the standouts. Unlike most commercial sausages, these are not pasteurized but, rather, are dry-cured the old, slow way. The meat is mixed with salt and spices, stuffed into natural casings, and hung in an aging room where beneficial bacteria have developed over the years and contribute to the nuanced taste of the meat. With time, the sausages dry and ripen and acquire layers of savory flavor. "It's not about volume or speed," Buzzio says of his ancient trade. "We're completely in the 19th century as far as the product is concerned, and we're proud of it." Salumeria Biellese's cured meats cost between $5 and $24 per pound. To order, call 212/736-7376 or visit www.salumeriabiellese.com.