In Chicago, Mado serves a succulent spit-roasted, pork belly-wrapped tenderloin. New York's Il Buco roasts whole heirloom pigs. Esposito's in Philadelphia also has a fine whole-pig porchetta. RoliRoti, a cart in San Francisco's Ferry Plaza Market, seasons belly and loin with herbs, lemon zest, and pinot grigio. The porchetta at Salumi in Seattle is piled on a roll with a tasty parsley-caper spread.