As our host, Evelyn spoke with the same familiar intimacy she uses when she neighbors on the air, taking every opportunity to enthrall us with the rural customs that enthralled her. She prefaced the meal by chronicling her trip to nearby Essex to a butcher who'd assured her that the evening's pork chops came from an Iowa pig. The cut, she explained, was what cooks call "Iowa chops," meaning nearly two inches thick. They had been prepared according to a recipe titled "Elegant Pork Chops" from Virginia Miller, a longtime KMA listener and friend who lived in an old farmhouse a half hour's drive from Shenandoah. Miller, Evelyn advised us, was known in the area as a crackerjack cook. Her chops were as tender as pot roast and exceedingly succulent: mighty plateaus of marinated pork, baked in a sweet-sour sauce made of molasses, ketchup, and brown sugar, that vented wisps of sweet porcine perfume when sliced into. With the chops, Evelyn served corn on the cob picked from the Birkby garden, allotting four ears per person. On a big plate next to the bowl of corn were a tub of Promise margarine, a stick of I Can't Believe It's Not Butter!, and a stick of Iowa butter. Also on the side were pickled beets, broiled tomato halves topped with seasoned bread crumbs, a salad tossed with X-Tra Touch Country-Style Dressing (made in Shenandoah) that Evelyn had lightened with a bit of beaten egg white, and a homely but satisfying loaf of seven-grain bread, for which Evelyn apologized: only five grains had been used. To garnish the bread, in addition to the margarines and butter, Evelyn provided honey from Bob's apiary, plus blackberry and currant jelly and strawberry preserves, all from his fruit. The gooseberries in the gooseberry tart were Bob's, too, but the silky orb of lemon chiffon ice cream on top of each warm piece of tart was store-bought, a local brand made from a recipe developed by two ladies in Essex.