I was never crazy about kraut, but one evening, as I wandered through the aisles of my Brooklyn co-op market, a jar stopped me in my tracks. It didn't look like any sauerkraut I'd ever seen—the glass practically glowed with ruby shreds of pickled red cabbage. Intrigued, I tossed it in my basket. Once home, I grabbed a fork and took a bite. It was bracingly tart and unexpectedly crisp, with a lively, almost effervescent zip. It bore no resemblance to the lifeless, soggy stuff I'd known before. I kept eating, dreaming of the fish tacos, dumplings, and bigos I could top with the snappy crimson tendrils. I called the producer to see what else they made.