Last year I was invited by chef Rizzi DeFabo to be a guest at his fourth-generation family restaurant, Rizzo's Malabar Inn in Crabtree, Pennsylvania, an hour north of Pittsburgh, for its annual Saint Joseph's Day feast. He promised a bread altar and a dish called Saint Joseph's pants; whatever those were, I decided I had to see them. I recruited an Italian friend to go with me. On the way, she explained that although most people know Joseph as the husband of Mary and the acting father of Jesus, he is also the patron saint of carpenters, confectioners, laborers, the dying, families, social justice, fighters against communism, and the countries Peru and Canada. His feast day was first proclaimed in Sicily in the Middle Ages during a drought. The people prayed to Saint Joseph, and rain came; the Sicilians decided to celebrate the saint by preparing feasts in his honor. Because bread was a precious commodity, they showed their appreciation by constructing altars adorned with it in their homes and squares.