The very origin of Home Food tells much about how the role of America's restaurant chefs has changed in recent years. It was conceived as a fund-raising project by Share Our Strength, the food industry hunger-relief organization. (Many of the chefs included here contribute to SOS's annual countrywide Taste of the Nation festivals. SOS also fights hunger through grant distribution and community outreach projects.) As Calvin Trillin notes in his foreword to this book, though today's American chefs seem to be having a good time in their work, "[n]o occupational group I know of has been more serious about its responsibilities to Americans who need help." The same chefs who feed the affluent in their restaurants, that is, also cook for fund-raisers, contribute leftovers to food-distribution programs for the poor and homeless, and teach food-service job skills to the disenfranchised. There were certainly exceptions, but the chefs in this country in decades past, in general, would hardly have been likely to show such selfless solidarity.