Mile-High Pancakes

I'm not much for the two-hour brunch queues that are a competitive sport in Manhattan, but chef Patrick Evans-Hylton talked me into taking a stand outside Clinton Street Baking Company, a restaurant known for pancakes. Our wild Maine blueberry version came piled high enough to put a cake to shame. The pancakes managed to be both rich and fluffy, with a double dose of berries: popping through the batter and soaking, in a compote, on top. A few happy whimpers later, the stack had disappeared. — Seanan Forbes