The name aficionados know is that of Joe's Stone Crab, in Miami Beach, which began cooking and, more important, publicizing stone crabs in the 1920s. Joe Weiss, one of the many Jewish immigrants drawn to the area for its climate, opened a lunch counter in 1913 and, as part of the period's increasingly widespread flouting of the Jewish dietary laws, served local shellfish. Joe's takes credit for discovering the best way to cook and serve the claw: boiled and quickly chilled, so that the meat easily slips free of the shell instead of sticking to it. Moreover, the meat has a finer and clearer flavor when served cold. Joe's has lines out the door during fishing season for its dinners of stone crab with hash browns, and it pioneered the retail shipping of cooked chilled crab claws.