The chickens that emerged from the oven at the Inn at Celebrity Dairy, a B&B and goat cheese farm in Siler City, North Carolina, permeated the kitchen with the warmly familiar aroma of Sunday dinner, but these birds didn't look anything like your standard roasters. One had unusually long legs that poked out of the pan; another had a meaty breast that burst through its thick, burnished skin; and a third looked as lean as a long-distance runner. A local chef named Andrea Reusing carved each one carefully and stole a few bites. "This is what chicken is supposed to taste like," she said, with a wide grin. Sneaking a few morsels myself, I was amazed at the range of flavors and textures, from rich and gamy to satiny and succulent.