I cooked dozens of dishes from Screen Doors and fell in love with many of them. When I plucked Foose's crispy fried catfish and piquant hush puppies out of the hot, bubbling oil, I almost doubled over: suddenly my kitchen smelled just like the Fish Shack, the dirt-road-side fish house in Carmack, Mississippi, that I'd loved to visit on childhood weekends after spending the days working on my grandparents' farm. I also made Foose's Sweet Tea Pie, which she first tried as a teenager and continues to tweak today. The beige-colored custard is as refreshing as tea but is improved as a velvety, lemon-infused pie. Most of all, though, it reminded me of what I like the best about Southern food: it makes you feel at home, even when, like me, you're thousands of miles away.