As much as I loved Nana's autumnal treat as a child, I forgot about it after she passed away. Then a recent visit to Edisto reignited my craving and sent me scavenging for recipes. I found one in Sarah Rutledge's 1847 version of The Carolina Housewife, one in the Junior League's 1950 Charleston Receipts (the Dixie cook's bible), and one in John Martin Taylor's relatively modern Hoppin' John's Lowcountry Cooking (Bantam Books, 1992). None of these sources, though, specified the variety of pumpkin to use. My cousins in Charleston suggested the bright-orange "Halloweenie" kind. "Your grandmother never used anything other than a pale pumpkin," my dad argued. My last resort was Pink of George & Pink's, every Edistonian's favorite vegetable stand. But when I asked her about the chips, she just smiled shyly. "I remember yellow pumpkins," she said. "Nobody grows them 'round here no more."