It is the food of the poor, the handcart-pullers. A simple chickpea stew, it is called by many names: chana, chole, hara matar when it's green. Its tartness comes from tamarind, pomegranate seeds, green mango powder, or lemon. It can be dry or wet, fortified with potatoes, tomato-red or almost black. Under any name, it feeds India.