In recent years, I've started to sense the stirrings of an iceberg revival on our shores. On menus that used to serve microgreens, I now often find those comforting iceberg wedges and chopped salads (though I'm still waiting for a layered-salad comeback). What's more, small-scale farmers are beginning to cultivate some of the more colorful, flavorful, and nutritious varieties of Lactuca sativa (as iceberg lettuce is taxonomically known) that are currently being developed by agricultural scientists. Others are seeking out older, heirloom iceberg varieties, like great lakes, ice queen, and new york head, which have frillier leaves, larger heads, and more-supple textures. Still others are bringing to market newer varieties, like skyline, maverick, crystal, magenta, crispino, centennial, and summertime, that expand their customers' notion of what relatives of iceberg lettuce can look and taste like. Frieda's, a produce distributor based in Los Alamitos, California, that sells to upscale retailers around the country, has even started marketing "baby iceberg" lettuce that comes in softball-size heads.