Making the perfect omelette is, to me, a lifelong endeavor. Involving only a few ingredients, the omelette's simplicity makes cooking it just about impossible to master. I recently enjoyed a near-perfect omelette at Joan's On Third in Los Angeles. Joan, a pupil of Dione Lucas, told me that moderate heat and the right proportions of water, eggs, salt, and a little patience are the keys to success. Her omelette was light and fluffy, almost like a thin egg crepe, filled with cheese, bacon, and mushrooms. Sheer heaven! And to think, my whole life I have unwittingly made my omelettes with cream and eggs instead of water, which lightens the texture. Dione definitely had the right idea in mind when she created her foolproof recipe.
Alex Guarnaschelli is chef of the New York City restaurant Butter.
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