Making the perfect omelette is, to me, a lifelong endeavor. Involving only a few ingredients, the omelette's simplicity makes cooking it just about impossible to master. I recently enjoyed a near-perfect omelette at Joan's On Third in Los Angeles. Joan, a pupil of Dione Lucas, told me that moderate heat and the right proportions of water, eggs, salt, and a little patience are the keys to success. Her omelette was light and fluffy, almost like a thin egg crepe, filled with cheese, bacon, and mushrooms. Sheer heaven! And to think, my whole life I have unwittingly made my omelettes with cream and eggs instead of water, which lightens the texture. Dione definitely had the right idea in mind when she created her foolproof recipe.