I always liked watching Scott in the kitchen because there was such generosity in the way he cooked. He loves frostings, for example, and would complain that most cakes don't have enough. So he slathered scoops of rich pecan-bourbon frosting on his three-layered Lane cake, making sure there was enough left over that we all got to lick the bowl. He loves earthy flavors, too, and introduced Edna to varieties of peppers, field peas, and collard greens that weren't part of her Virginia heritage. All too aware of how most people know only the worst of Southern cooking, Scott wanted to do for the South what Alice Waters had done for California, using only the best local ingredients. So he'd season lard with smoky ham, for instance, to make delectable fried chicken. Lard, incidentally, was not part of his heritage in peanut-growing country, but once he'd been converted, he loved it with a vengeance and would often say happily, "Praise the lard and pass the biscuits."