Hah! Iceberg would smile if it could—for the truth is that, round and crisp, it is a perfect creation. It is sturdy, but has a surprisingly delicate flavor. Unlike some of the frail field lettuces that wilt, swoon, and have the vapors readily, iceberg is stalwart. It's a close friend of every sandwich of note—hamburger, peanut butter, cheese, club, tuna, deviled egg, and more. And it's very cosmopolitan. It figures in the popular Chinese preparation of minced squab in lettuce leaves, and in petits pois a la française, among other imports. It is equally at home on the aristocratic or the peasant table.