Cheeses used include scamorza, parmigiano, pecorino romano, ricotta, and, most of all, mozzarella. Contrary to popular belief in the U.S., mozzarella di bufala is almost never used for pizza. To illustrate why, Vincenzo Pagnani at the Brandi pizzeria picks up a cow's-milk fior di latte mozzarella with his left hand and a mozzarella di bufala with his right, then squeezes them both. Moisture drips from his right hand. "Mozzarella di bufala is like a sponge, full of liquid that ruins the pizza," he says. "It's too fatty. We eat it raw, but never on pizza."