Greatly prized in Europe, white asparagus is grown under mounds of earth to protect its pale stalks from the sunlight-inspired chlorophyll that would otherwise turn them green. At the Auberge de Noves near Avignon (Provençal Contemporary), chef Robert Lalleman serves flawless stalks from a neighbor's farm with an olive oil sabayon. Lay the brittle spears flat to peel them, he suggests, so they won't break—then drain them on a clean dish towel.