A Guide to Juchitán’s Mercado 5 de Septiembre

Juchitan’s Mercado 5 de Septiembre is one of Mexico’s great markets, where a shifting ensemble of gregarious Juchitecas sells different foods depending on the hour of the day. Come for breakfast, and again in the afternoon or evening to find a fresh spread of Isthmus specialties.


You might begin the day with briny caldo de pescado (fish soup), and then have a late-morning snack of gueta binguis, small cakes of masa, pumpkin seeds, and shrimp.


At midday there are many hearty dishes to choose from, from fiery stews like pollo guisado to the creamy potato casserole pure de papas.


Evening is the time to enjoy bu’pu, a chocolate drink flavored with frangipani blossoms. Snacks like garnachas topped with beef and cheese are served late into the night.