To get one thing straight right away, there is no single Kansas City style of barbecue. (For that matter, there's no single Kansas City; most of the city is in Missouri, but some is in Kansas, and barbecue belongs to both.) Instead, due in part to its central location and in part to the Kansas Citian's open barbecue attitude (locals may be highly educated on the subject, but they are not, and they have never been, barbecue snobs), the city's frenzy supports a democracy of styles. Natives were weaned on briskets and burnt ends—those crunchy bits cut from the richly marbled tip of the brisket—and a whole realm of pork ribs: standard spares, St. Louis-style slabs, meaty baby backs, and "poor man's ribs" (rib tips). Crucial, too, in K.C. are hearty beef ribs and dainty Denver lamb ribs; sliced, chopped, and pulled pork (often piled on a soft bun and topped with coleslaw, a trick imported from either South Carolina or Memphis, depending on who's talking); and Italian sausage, Polish sausage, and "hot links" that fall somewhere in between. There's also chicken, fish, pig snouts (for barbecue fundamentalists), and whole heads of garlic (for left-wingers). Technically, there is a definitive Kansas City-style sauce: tangy, tomatoey, and thickened with molasses, but even this is open to interpretation. Today, K.C. groceries offer a staggering choice of boutique concoctions.