Gyali Kafenes is a blend of old and new. There are stark pewlike wood benches against the walls, antiques, copper accents, and bistro-close marble tables. But Kanas's culinary vision is modern. The food here is spicier than in most Athens ouzeris. (Efstragiatis is from Salonika, in the north, where hot peppers are held in high esteem.) Seafood dominates the menu. Mussels are grilled, deep-fried in a corn-flour crust, or baked with wine, feta, and hot and sweet peppers in a tomato sauce. Shrimp and squid are prepared saganaki-style. Another staple, gavros (a type of sardine), is marinated in vinegar, olive oil, parsley, and garlic, then roasted or grilled. I am always happily amazed, too, by the sausage-shaped Cypriot sheftalies—ground lamb and pork with acres of onion, parsley, and breadcrumbs—served on pita bread that's been dipped in oil and blistered on the fire. Kanas also does a little more with dessert than is typical at ouzeris. One treat is quinces, glazed in a brew of red wine, cloves, and sugar—like a more aromatic version of baked apples.