Lechon, roasted young pig (lechon refers to a piglet fed on its mother's milk, or leche), is both an essential part of the holiday table and Puerto Rico's national dish. The preparation of it is considered a time-honored craft, and the method has remained the same for centuries: The carcass of a juvenile pig is first rubbed with adobo spices, a simple blend that includes salt, pepper, and oregano. The seasoning then settles for a day or two, penetrating the skin and meat. The animal, which weighs usually no more than 100 pounds, is tied to a spit and roasted over coals in a steel or cinder block box, frequently turned sideways to release the grease from under the skin. The fat eventually renders out, and the skin, known as cuerito, becomes crackly and paper-thin. Lechoneros then butcher the animal, and every part is consumed; even the innards, which are removed before the pig is roasted, are used to make gandinga, a stew said to soothe hangovers.