You don't have to drive far in Los Angeles to find pupusas, El Salvador's favorite comfort food: disks of corn masa filled with slightly salty quesillo cheese, black beans, shredded pork, the flower buds of loroco (a Central American herb), or any combination thereof. Pupusas are a food of the body. They arrive on your table perfectly griddled, with a pattern of toast marks as unique as the fingerprints from the person who rolled and filled and clapped them together. You could use a fork to eat them (my 95-year-old Salvadoran grandmother, bless her heart and her prim manners, always does). But that would preclude the joy of tearing off a chunk of the hot masa, using it to pinch up some spicy pickled cabbage (called curtido), and popping it in your mouth, savoring the cool snap of cabbage, the slight crunch of grilled masa, the molten ooze of cheese. Do not reach for a napkin. Lick your fingers instead.