Over the centuries, where Swedes went, the meatball rolled along. I've often wondered whether the appetite for the dish is still as keen in Sweden as it is in, say, Minneapolis, and so on a recent trip I was delighted to discover that Swedish meatballs remain an object of fierce devotion in their native land. They can be purchased prepackaged at any supermarket; they're eaten in homes across the country, at any time of the day. When I visited the city of Goteborg, on the west coast, the lively cafes along the main avenue, Kungsportsavenyn, were all serving them. Farther south in the port of Malmo, parties of after-work revelers chased their beers with plain meatballs in the many brasseries lining the town's two ancient main squares. Even in vibrant Stockholm, the capital, where there's no shortage of innovative cooking right now, I could always count on finding the familiar constellation of meatballs, mashed potatoes, gravy, and lingonberries.