Hash made with corned beef, in particular, was a breakfast staple of affluent colonial households and a feature of menus at grand hotels like The Greenbrier, where its presentation is ever evolving. When we visited last summer, it was served in patties alongside fried potatoes and asparagus tips. Lately, the cooks have topped it with poached eggs and chive-strewn hollandaise, served with elegant toast points. But the recipe for the hash itself remains deliciously consistent, combining diced peppers, onions, and potatoes, chicken stock, and sizzled shreds of corned brisket. Seared on the griddle, the faintly peppery hash is soft beneath its decadent crust. I ate mine with a dab of ketchup, after which the waiter brought me a finger bowl of warm lemon water and a fresh linen napkin. My breakfast of "leftovers" could not have felt more elegant.