When Alice Waters launched the place, she saw it not as a trendsetting restaurant but as something between a salon for her friends and the sort of unpretentious neighborhood cafe portrayed in the 1930s film versions of Marcel Pagnol's Fanny trilogy—one of whose characters was a kindly sailmaker named Panisse. Significantly, Waters was greatly influenced by Elizabeth David, whose book French Country Cooking, published in England in 1951, was really a form of escapist reading—a vision of a rural France where fresh, high-quality ingredients were readily available. David emphasized that French restaurants depended on an infrastructure of food suppliers for their success, so Waters cultivated fishmongers, cheesemakers, backyard gardeners, Northern California wineries, and a local wine importer named Kermit Lynch (who actually wandered around France discovering little wineries). It was hardly a surprise, then, when one of her early chefs left to open an American charcuterie, Pig-by-the-Tail, across the street from Chez Panisse, and another went on to start The Acme Bread Company (arguably the first modern-day American artisanal bakery)—or when a French-inspired confectionary called Cocolat opened nearby. It was even less of a surprise when such one-time Chez Panisse chefs as Mark Miller, Mark Peel, Jonathan Waxman, and Deborah Madison went on to gain renown in their own right, reshaping American cooking on their own terms.