That is how I come to find myself propped up against their bar at 8:30 in the morning, raising a glass to sip the buttery richness of the wine. To accompany it, they offer me a small but perfect cheese plate, including brie, st-nectaire, cantal, camembert, fourme d'ambert, and chevre frais. As the kitchen is tiny at À la Cloche (named for the bell that was once rung to mark the start and finish of market commerce every day), the Lesages specialize in cheese and charcuterie plates, quiches, and fruit tarts. Serge is responsible for the endearingly homemade character of the chunky, rustic chicken liver terrine as well as the ham, which he poaches in a court bouillon, while Annie's domain is pastry, both sweet and savory. Slightly more elaborate cooked dishes are sometimes served on special occasions—like the Petit Sale that traditionally accompanies the first beaujolais nouveau of the season every November.