Rice noodles come, of course, from rice, which Jae Muy receives in bulk from the farms nearby. She likes to use rice that’s been aged for eight months, which allows the gluten to develop enough to produce noodles that aren’t too sticky. The factory soaks the rice in water for three days, then grinds the soft grains and milky ricewater into a thin, smooth batter. From there, most of the liquid flour is ready to use, but a third of it gets siphoned off into oversized clay pots and left to ferment for three days. The two flours will be mixed together before the noodle sheets are poured, a carefully tested fermented-to-fresh flour ratio that produces noodles with a slight, pleasant tang.