The Tokyo that many visitors seek out is all glitz, but I adore places like Uosan Sakaba, a terrific izakaya, or eating pub, in Shitamachi, the Low City. Historically home to tradesmen and fishermen, it's an area full of grit and hidden treasures. The action at Uosan Sakaba starts after work, when white-shirted salarymen gather to enjoy cold beer and simply cooked, incredibly satisfying food. But I usually get there much later, when the convivial place is still cooking but I can easily get a seat. This izakaya specializes in fish cooked in traditional styles: aemono (dressed), sashimi (raw), nimono (simmered), grilled, and fried. Wedging myself in at the counter, ordering a beer and some salt-grilled iwashi no shioyaki, the beloved anchovies of Tokyo Bay, I think to myself, to hell with glitz.