We started with piles of oysters on the half shell, of course. All of Rappahannock’s oysters are the native Eastern variety, grown in about 400 acres throughout the Chesapeake Bay, mostly on the Rappahannock River. They range in flavor from sweet and mild to aggressively briny, depending on how far out towards the sea they are cultivated. We made quick work of them, washing them down with Revival Oyster Stout, a deep, toasty beer with a surprisingly pleasing briny character. We could have stopped there, but in true Virginia style, it was only a warm-up; a seemingly endless parade of plates then began to arrive as fast as we could devour them. A crunchy grilled romaine heart with anchovies and parmesan was followed by pan-fried shad roe (some of the first of the season) with bacon and caramelized onions; angels on horseback, baked oysters with crispy, thick pieces of Edwards ham; grilled whole croaker with salsa verde; and something called a "stuffin’ muffin", which turned out to be a dense slab of oyster stuffing covered in gravy (it was supposed to be a one-time Thanksgiving special, but their regulars begged them not to take it off the menu, and so now it’s available year-round). We ended this supremely gratifying, if disjointed, meal with coffee and a s'mores donut—as delightfully trashy as it sounds. I was dancing in my seat throughout.