What makes it so special? If you ask the man behind the butter, Jean-Yves Bordier, he'll say something modest like, "I haven't invented anything new, I use old methods that respect the land, the animals, and tradition." Actually, he's said exactly that—isn't it delightful and vague and French-artisan-sounding? But the thing Mr. Bordier doesn’t seem to be aware of is that his product makes you look at butter in a completely new way. It’s not just a mildly flavored fat that’s fine on bread, or good to bake with, or extra tasty when it’s browned; it’s a completely special ingredient in it’s own right, this butter can be appreciated the way a good cheese is. It's got so much character, the texture is noticeably elegant, and once you get some of his flavored butters, you realize this guy is like Willy Wonka for adults who like good food.