Then, of course, there's the butterscotch budino at Pizzeria Mozza. Most people's first guess is that Mozza co-owner and chef Nancy Silverton is to blame for L.A.'s budino preoccupation, and they're partially right: Mozza's version has become one of L.A.'s most iconic desserts. But Silverton takes very little credit for its creation. "The history, at least from my perspective, goes back before Mozza," Silverton says. While she was preparing to open the pizzeria in 2006, their pastry chef Dahlia Narvaez was biding her time and honing her skills at Jar, a restaurant owned by Silverton's friend Suzanne Tracht. Jar had a butterscotch pudding on the menu, and, according to Silverton, "Dahlia turbocharged that," by adding a layer of caramel and a sprinkling of sea salt. "My main contribution was the pine nut rosemary cookie that accompanies Pizzeria Mozza's—and also now Chi Spacca's—butterscotch budino."