I had dinner across the parking lot from my hotel room at the Brookville Hotel, a family-style chicken dinner establishment that traces its roots back to the 1870s, when it was built as a waypoint for the Chisholm cowboys. They serve a full meal of fried chicken and all the requisite sides—slaw, mashed potatoes, creamed corn and homestyle biscuits. Even the hotel isn’t quite the same. It moved from Brookville, Kansas, to it’s current spot in Abilene in 2000 to be closer to I-70. Despite its unusual success through the 20th century, a dinner spot that had hosted real, live cowboys didn’t have a place in the 21st, and had to be moved.