Fast-forward 200 centuries to the Brooklyn Bread Lab in Bushwick, a shop and baking experimentation center where chef Adam Leonti picks up a craggy, rich brown loaf the color of an Irish setter. "This bread is einkorn, Maine Grains, 2015 sourdough," he says. "There are so many ways to say it, but that's the most accurate." That bread, made from einkorn wheat that Leonti milled the day before, probably has a lot in common with the first bread but almost nothing in common with most of the bread eaten in America today. In the millennia that humans have been grinding wheat, we took a few wrong turns and ended up at Wonder Bread. What flour was originally—fresh, variable, something that you would have found in the prehistoric produce section—hardly resembles what it's become: standardized, shelf-stable, and flavorless. Now, people like Leonti and other bakers, farmers, millers, and scientists are trying to rejigger the future of flour by looking to its past.