It started in the Top End, Australia, almost a decade ago, when a pair of elderly Aboriginal sisters took photographer James Fisher and me to their Dreaming Place to forage for wild honey. They called it sugarbag. After a dusty drive on the Great Northern Highway, we trudged along a dry riverbed into a sandstone mountain range that rose up from nowhere on a horizon of spectacular sameness, in a desolate part of the Outback a million miles from anywhere. This far-northern region of Australia also happens to be home to the oldest living culture in the world, dating back 50,000 years. And two of the Kija people were our escorts.