hen David Cuapio’s great-grandfather started making bread in the early 1900s, San Juan Totolac was just a tiny hillside village. He and his family would make their dough from wheat ground at the Spanish mill up the hill, mix in a little lard and piloncillo (unrefined cane sugar), and leaven the dough with pulque, a mildly alcoholic beverage made from the fermented sap of agave plants, which once proliferated in the region. They would load their bread into wooden crates, strap them to the backs of mules, and sell the loaves at whichever nearby village or town was celebrating a festival, usually tied to the local Catholic patron saint. Their customers called it pan de pulque, pan de burro (mule bread), or pan de feria (fair bread). In Totolac, they called it pan de fiesta (party bread), and it was how just about everyone in town earned a living.