Last night, the SAVEUR Test Kitchen was churning out dishes like queso with wild mushrooms and bacon, heirloom tomatoes with peach and burrata, shrimp toast, and barbecue short rib, all thanks to Atlanta-based chef Ford Fry and his team. Everything was served family-style, starting with the bubbling pot of cheese that we all hovered over and swiped at with pulls of just-made tortillas, washed down with bright, crisp sparkling rosé.
With six Atlanta restaurants under his belt, Fry is branching out—out west—to Houston, where he’ll be opening State of Grace this fall. He spoke to us a bit about what goes into naming a restaurant (and namely the structural trends that come and go: “X and Y,” “the X”), and finished things out with deep-fried, lemon curd-filled hand pies. A sweet ending to a sweet evening.