At Elmer's BBQ in Tulsa, you can get ribs, chopped beef, smoked bologna, and a hot link, all at once, with Keith Jimerson's famous "Badwich." Jimerson, like everybody else I ask, isn't certain why smoked bologna became such a big thing in Oklahoma, but he fields the question with the same guess as the rest. "It's poor people food," he notes. "And we were poor people." Sometimes called "Oklahoma tenderloin" or "Oklahoma prime rib," it was a cheap way to make a meal for the whole family, he explains. They could put it in gravies or gumbos, smoke it or fry it. But even today, with the destitute Dust Bowl days of Oklahoma well in the past, both classic shops like Elmer's and trendy new hotspots like Burn Co. carry smoked bologna, a humble tube meat beloved by anyone who grew up eating barbecue in Oklahoma.