Perhaps conceptually. But Lin has never tried Mexican food. She built her tacos by taste, one layer at a time. Guà bāo meat was too heavy alone, so she borrowed raw vegetables from Vietnam's bánh mì sandwiches. Then, of course, she needed some heat. Wasabi's complexity worked better than the quick fix of chile peppers and became the base for a creamy, deep-biting coleslaw. For more timid palates, she designed a salsa of yogurt, tomato, papaya juice, and corn.